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Thanks Jeff. It's good to hear sometimes.

4300 wheel bolt problems
John Deere Tractors
Replies 72 Post by Ted Kennedy

I recently repaired my Cub Cadet 407 backhoe by installing hardened steel bushings at all of the pivot points. The design of the unit had no-replaceable bushings and the dealer was clueless as how to go about installing new ones, he advised me to replace both the boom and the dipper along with all of the pins. In aerospace engineering we frequently purchase components and hardware from either McMaster-Carr and/or Carr Lane (www.mcmaster.com/ and www.carrlane.com/). I bought enough self-adjusting spring steel bushings from McMaster-Carr of the appropriate outside and inside diameter, a set of new pins from Cub, and rented a magnetic base drill press. I center indicated each bore, used the appropriate ream after positioning the magnetic base drill press, and opened the worn holes to size in one operation. Pressing in the bushings was easy, just drove them in using a wooden dowel and hammer. The hoe operates perfectly with no binding or slop and the next time I need to re-bush, all I have to do is drive out the worn ones and replace. The total cost including rental of the drill press, and all parts was $255.00, to buy a new boom and dipper stick, $2700.00. If anyone needs unusual parts, tools, jigs, storage items, etc., check these sources out.

Sources for Hard To Find Items
Parts and Repair
Replies 4 Post by Ted Kennedy

Jim, Murph has provided you with some food for thought and I would like to expand upon this. I'm a manufacturing engineer in the aerospace industry, we don't use steel much in airframes, but we use it in our tooling and fixtures. I looked at the King Kutter design and it gives me pause for thought. Their design is a deceptively simple design that could get someone into danger if they are inexperienced and try to depart from it. As an engineer, I would never have done it that way, nor would Mil-Spec's, FAA, or OSHA allowed me to. Not for our industry and probably not for my own use. The use of simple angle iron (in this case of unknown, to us, ASTM/ASE strength) as a cantilevered beam may/may not have a uniformly supported load rating of 1 kip (1000lbs to a kip) for the exact length of the beam (also unknown to me), when unbraced and welded to a vertical member. Your design had better be at least as good as King Kutter's. The point at which the beam is welded (pivot point in this case), and what kind of weld and weldable area that your beam offers, is also as critical as the moment (length) and material that you'll be using for the beam. You mentioned using rectangular tubing so I looked up the uniformly loaded rating for laterally supported beams of ASTM A36 steel (a good baseline), of various size rectangular structural tubing, of various wall thicknesses, of lenngths in excess of four feet, plugged the figure(s) into my computer using aircraft welding standards, and came up with a disaster waiting to happen. With the area available for welding the tube (beam) to your carriage, there exists a probability of failure with tip supported (non-uniformly supported)loads in excess of 1600lbs. I caution you, if you aren't capable of doing your own structural analysis, please have someone do it for you before you procede, and never, ever, stick something valuable under any suspended load. I'm not saying your idea is dumb or without merit, you've got a nice project, you can probably do it, and it should turn out well. Just check things out well in advance if you haven't already. Good Luck.

making a 3 point carryall fork need help
Operating and Attachments
Replies 23 Post by Ted Kennedy

Thanks Bird, I am a regional landscaper and ignorant of how the rest of the country does most things I take for granted. I'll remember this and be sure to include it in future discussions as appropriate. Again, this is why I like coming to this forum, it expands my knowledge and that in and of itself is a positive thing. Thanks again, and personally, I think you and Murph help provide the glue that holds this thing all in perspective. You guys have never run a bulldozer over someone else, are literate and well spoken, and possess a clarity of thought and wealth of knowledge uncommon to today.

Tractor for Wildflower Bed
Parts and Repair
Replies 15 Post by Ted Kennedy

Hello Doug, first let me say that I don't own a Deere but consider them to be great machines. Second, I've been a manufacturing engineer for 21+ years, in aerospace, and a part-time landscaper for over forty years. This I can tell you with absolute certainty: hydraulic leaks in a new machine like yours are unacceptable, period. As for the anti-freeze issue, I've experienced hose clamps that require tightening (normal maintenance) and a drain cock that weeped a little due to an improperly seated "O" ring (on my Cub Cadets). Maybe your leak came from a hose or clamp also, changing out a radiator on such a new machine seems a bit drastic. Batteries should not reflect negatively (no pun intended) on a manufacturer because I consider them to be pretty much luck of the draw. Little stuff like tightening hoses and clamps after 50 hours or so is to be expected and should be listed as owner's responsibility, but hydraulic leaks from a new system? Sorry, no sale. Even the construction equipment I've owned/run didn't start to leak/weep until well over 2000 hours.

New Problems - JD BH Radiator
John Deere Tractors
Replies 9 Post by Ted Kennedy

Mark, you are a good man. Thank you for the web link. I enjoyed the site and as I have three Cub compacts, I will keep it mind for future reference.

Yanmar tractors
Yanmar Tractors
Replies 4 Post by Ted Kennedy

Well, what can I say. If MikeS did take a stab at it and got nowhere, then it may just be that Deere's time has come and gone. I do, however, think that the CEO was made aware of the issues and the fact that you got a call back shows that they are listening. Do they care, they'll sure care if corporate counsel tells him that you intend action and that your attorney is looking into class action comprised of other agrieved Deere owners. Corporate structure dictates that counsel must make senior counsel aware of the issue, and generally speaking, senior counsel has a weekly with both the CEO and COO. Chances are the boss did get the word and delgated back down the chain. And never did I think that Terry was wrong in being critical of the JD rep, nor did I mean to imply that Terry had no justification, just that it may not have been his fault that he wasn't trained. And for God's sake, I wasn't irritated even a little, honest. I don't come here to pass judgement on anyone, nor to anger them. I try to offer help based on personal experience. I offer one last thing that may help if you don't like the attorney's letter idea, and that is, Deere & Company's annual report has to be public record, almost every annual report includes the names, and sometimes, the corporate address of the chairman, etc. The annual report should be downloadable. I use annual reports as a source of names and info for my letter writing. If you can't get to the CEO, then I'd bet there is a VP of Quality Assurance, a VP of Small Tractor Manufacturing, A VP of Import/Export, a VP of Communications, a VP of Corporate Counsel, a VP of Public Relations (see my point? if the big cheese hides, then go after the little bosses), and you should be able to get to them. More often than not, future sales are lost because of service after the sale, eventually it will catch up with Deere. I hope I've helped.

John Deere Reps Out of the loop
Tractor Projects
Replies 17 Post by Ted Kennedy

Lana, in response to what Paul said, "yuppified" does seem to describe the situation in my area of New England. Certain machines for yard work have become in vogue with the newly rich, young, earth sensitive, couples buying the $650K plus homes. Locke reel mowers, Ford N tractors, International/Farmall Cubs, for God knows what reasons, are sought after and bought at premium prices. Landscapers I know that have 8N's have been offered over $5K, no questions asked, for ratty old 2N's. It almost seems like they are status symbols and I see the young folks towing their wooden trailers around the grounds, but don't see anything concrete ever being done with them. In fact, some of my customers have them and one family piled the kids on the trailer and drove to where I was working just to watch. As for work, and I've seen them come and go, you couldn't do much worse. For some draft applications like raking and towing, they are adequate. But don't look for them to be worth their keep against a modern machine. MFWD, open center hydraulics, adjustable operator stations, hydrostatic drive, four cylinder front end loaders, etc. were all improvements over the offerings of the early Fords, and for good reasons.

Opinions on Ford 9N tractor
Tractor Projects
Replies 16 Post by Ted Kennedy

Phil, my Cub Cadet 7275 has a pair of split brake pedals on the right side with a flip-up bar that locks them together. For months I thought that it was a useless setup until one of my employees showed me when, and how, they were effective. He was doing draft work with a 3pt York rake, windrowing yard debris. He had the speed control and throttle set a comfortable pace, and at the end of each row, he'd nail one pedal and turn in a neat, tight turn. Other than this, I think that the feature is nothing more than a design hold-over from the manually shifted transmission models, common to the entire design line. It probably would be too costly to re-engineer the assembly line and product to eliminate them. Such are the wonders of modern manufacturing.

TC29D Breaking
New Holland Tractors
Replies 13 Post by Ted Kennedy

Alan, I favor Cub Cadet, Kubota, Deere, Yanmar, and NH. I own three Cubs, all work very well, but I like the hydrostatic the most. The current version of the 7275 I own is the 7305, a 30hp 3 cyl diesel with hydrostatic, 3 range transmission, dif lock, etc. None of the Cubs have let me down. Yes, all brands have flaws and all have features that make them just a bit better for one's needs. A good compact should last you a lifetime if given the proper care. I chose Cub because of the dealership, they aren't perfect but they have made good on every issue. I landscape and find that a front end loader, backhoe, multi-purpose rake, and turf tires are the minimum for my trade. I have also bought quick attach FEL adapters, skid steer pallet forks, skid steer buckets, grapple bucket, boom, hydraulic auger, and 3PT hitch to skid steer adapter. I've boosted my gallons per minute hydraulic flow with a rear PTO driven pump kit from Kelly. Yes it is expensive but in a typical season, nothing is unused, each item earns its keep. When I need something special, like a vibratory plow or sneaker, I'll rent it. I lease my dump truck/tow vehicle but not my tractors. Deere makes excellent products, true they have had some mfg. engrg. problems but basically they make an excellent product. When the time comes, I'm replaceing my 7275 Cub and Case 580 with one machine, the Kubota L48. I am that impressed with it that I'll give up the comfort of the 580's cab for the utility of the design. The L48 has the grunt to work day to day in a construction role, weighs less than my 580 so I won't require the F650 I lease for safe towing, drinks less fuel, etc. It is a remarkable achievement that I appreciate. A big parcel of land like yours would temp me into making it into a botanical garden, I would look for a bit more machine than the 4100 to take advantage of the extra gpm flow and what the extra weight buys you in larger attachment versatility. Oh well, I've probably bored you to death, sorry. You can find some guys here that can expand on my thoughts, so have fun and good luck.

what brand and size of compact tractor
Operating and Attachments
Replies 11 Post by Ted Kennedy

MC, I venture into this discussion only because of your comment about "bad legs." My wife is handicapped, and I work with some men who have walking disabilities. Based on this experience I heartily recommend a hydrostatic drive machine, with MFWD. No matter which maker you choose, the hydro will take a load off of you by not having to worry about clutching and breaking constantly. A hydro enables people with difficulties to put in a full day's work without paying for it afterwards. By the way, Steve Carver is one of the few dealers that works to accomodate the handicapped operator, and good news, he sells Kubotas, new and used. That he helps people with special needs, is in itself, enough to make me a customer and fan, too bad we are separated by over a thousand miles. If you are close to NC and have special needs, Carver may be right for you.

which brand and what size tractor
Operating and Attachments
Replies 10 Post by Ted Kennedy

Frank, even in the worse conditions I've worked my Cub compacts, all with turf tires, I have never gotten stuck with the mfwd hydro (except on wet ice, used the hoe to drag myself out), the 2wd drive machines get stuck frequently. Even working in the woods, around sappling stumps, I have never had a puncture or damage. The turf tires hold up well and give me the best traction on rock, and in New England, I work on rock a lot. My big machine, the Case 580, has industrial tires, and in mud or on wet ice, it still gets hung up even in front drive and with the dif locked. I do think the R4's are tougher in the long run. Go figure? Guess it all boils down to conditions.

Should I get R-4 or AG tires
New Holland Tractors
Replies 15 Post by Ted Kennedy

Hey Treeman, as a fellow treeman of sorts you might want to check out Woods' offerings. I have my small machines setup with Kasco skid steer bucket adapter, I have the Woods SG Scrap Grapple Bucket in 66 inch. They also have grapple forks for ag purposes. I run the cylinders off of the 3rd valve next to the operator's seat. Blue Diamond is a less expensive alternative. Here is Woods link:

grapple for loader
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 12 Post by Ted Kennedy

Luke, you have me a bit confused. Why would you want to flush your transmission? If there is no obvious contamination present, like metal chips, dirt, or gasket material, then you should just perform the regularly scheduled maintenance. If there is a problem with contamination, other than sludge which is often caused by moisture, then the transmission should be disassembled, carefully examined, cleaned, dried, and reassembled. You just can't reach all of the nooks and crannies by introducing another fluid into the case, and you never, ever, want to introduce a cleaning fluid into an assembled transmission case under pressure. As far as kerosene is concerned, it is best left as a fuel. The only time I use it to clean is when something is all apart, never when it is assembled. If sludge is the problem, then drain the case, change the filters, and re-fill using the manufacturer's approved fluid.

Transmission hydraulic cleaning
Parts and Repair
Replies 3 Post by Ted Kennedy

Rick, if you are looking for a go ahead, I just can't give it exactly for the reasons Roger has stated. The temptation is great to have a "fix-in-a-can" cure all, but I just don't like the idea of it flowing through the rest of your machine. While the additive may work OK on natural rubber or rubber based seals, there may be other compounds present in other seals/parts that won't take kindly to the additive. I'd try to locate another valve unit, used but in good shape, before I'd potentially harm the rest of the machine. However, if the hoe is a PTO unit, what the heck. And yes Roger, that red and black can of Mystery Oil sure does look good on the shelf! I've had mine in the family from the Korean War!

Hydraulic leaks
Parts and Repair
Replies 14 Post by Ted Kennedy

Tom, I, too, was curious about insurance coverage for my equipment and asked my agent for a reading. He was a bit taken back at first as I have a small business package in addition to my homeowner's policy. I pressed him because I still wanted to know about my homeowner's policy coverage. He checked, and to my surprise, learned that everything would not be covered while in transport or at someone else's property. As long as it was on our primary residence I had "every and any" occurrence covered at replacement cost, not pro-rated like cars and trucks. He said that if I didn't have my business policy I would have a hard time convincing the carrier that I wasn't using such "professional" equipment for an illegal side business if an accident or theft occurred while on the road or while at someone else's property. He said they would balk at payment because most homeowners (we aren't talking farm here) don't have such an extensive amount of equipment. Good thing I have the business policy because it protects me even while I'm at the inlaws or a friend's, and not just on the job. Good idea for everybody to check it out.

re homeowner insurance
Parts and Repair
Replies 22 Post by Ted Kennedy

Congratulations Mark. Now the fun starts, and for God sakes, don't hog it all to yourself. These machines are too much fun to be left idle, let everyone in the family have a go at it. My wife, who is handicapped, wouldn't go near my gear drive machines. Every time I needed an attachment she would question it severely. When I brought home the hydro she reluctantly decided to try it, now she runs it a lot and loves every minute. The upside? Whenever we need something new for it, she is the first to find a dealer and the lowest price. Best of all, she has become involved in a healthy activity that strengthens our bond. Tractors can rip things apart, they can also move things, and people, closer together. Enjoy!

Finally made the purchase
New Holland Tractors
Replies 4 Post by Ted Kennedy

Bob, there are some questions that need to be answered first, and they are; How much lawn are we talking about? What condition is it in now? Where are you located (Zone)? What are your soil conditions (PH, sand or clay, etc.)? I usually don't put in lawns in my business but have done enough to advise you to: power de-thatch the entire lawn, and roll an aerator (there are draft type for tractor towing) over the entire lawn after you have clearly flagged the spray heads. De-thatch and aerate in two directions, diagonally. I also advise you to top dress the problem areas with about an inch to two inches of PH balanced 30% sand content fine screened top soil before you seed. If your soil is hard packed in the problem areas, till in some cow dung or other clean organic matter, check the PH, and then top dress. If you have a large lawn, use a 3pt hitch pto powered spreader to seed. Use only premium seed that is right for your sun and soil conditions, hydroseeding is also a good way to go. I then lightly hand rake over the seeding and roll out using a water filled roller. We use salt marsh hay to cover the seeded area because it has little or no weed seeds normally found in lawns. Some guys like to use a starter fertilizer, I don't. Water, water, water. Water in the AM before sunrise for at least 3/4 hour, again at noon, and again at sunset. Soak, don't choke. This is critical to establishing and maintaining the seedlings. Finally, you might like to talk with the guys who do golf course greens maintenance in your area, these guys should have a wealth of knowledge and experience. A big lawn is a lot of work, good luck.

Overseeding
Operating and Attachments
Replies 3 Post by Ted Kennedy

GG, many of the landscapers I work with still have the old Fords. They are used mostly for draft work; rake, scraper, ripper, etc. Although the FEL's work OK, they are a far cry from today's machines, and lacking MFWD, they get stuck a lot even with wheel weights. The price is nice but look at it this way, are you and your wife going to put used appliances and old plumbing into the new house? Are you considering something in the way of a nice 50's furnace? Probably not, for obvious reasons. You and your family will have a lifetime together in that new home, why not have a tractor that will be around and running strong in time for your kids' first home? Enjoy life, it is filled with enough grief and aggrevation as it is, you don't need to add to it if you can possibly avoid it. Good luck to you and your family and enjoy the new home, it is a wonderful experience you'll look back on with pride and satisfaction. p.s. Don't forget to take lots of photos.

Buying old vs new
Kubota Tractors
Replies 19 Post by Ted Kennedy

Jerry, before you go too crazy looking for a way to re-engineer you machine, see if you can borrow a hydraulic test kit and get the spec.'s for your machine. Pay extra attention to the pressure relief valves and limit check valves. I don't think you have a pump output problem, but you could have a seriously maladjusted pressure relief valve. Most breakage of the type you described occurs when the boom and dipper are extended in-line and excessive bucket curl forces occur. These forces go straight up to the top link and try to "jack knife" your tractor. Once you rule out hydraulic over-pressure, then look to the less obvious. I, too, am sorry to hear about your misfortune and believe that it was of no fault of your own.

950 Tractor Broke in Two
John Deere Tractors
Replies 5 Post by Ted Kennedy